strings, tunings, and re-stringing
There are several different types of ukulele strings available, and they all differ in terms of acoustics, feel and durability. There is no "best" string. Like the other acoustic elements of the instrument, it is the player's opinion that matters. We have exhaustively tested three types of strings, and would characterize them as follows:
Fluorocarbon (Worth, Japan): These are smooth and relatively small diameter with excellent durability. The tone is clear and well balanced. The other string types require a wound string for low-G, while the fluorocarbon has a nylon low-G available for excellent balance and bass sustain. Furthermore, the strength of fluorocarbon allows for a higher tension #1 string giving excellent note attack.
Clear Nylon (D'Addario, USA): These strings are smooth and have excellent durability. The tone is warm and well balanced. Low-G is available with a wound string, and the #3 (C) string can be either nylon or wound.
Nylgut (Aquila, Italy): These white strings are medium diameter with a slightly gritty feel and are somewhat less cut resistant than the other strings. The tone is brighter than the other string types. Low-G is available with a wound string, and the #3 (C) string can be either nylgut or wound.
Standard Strings
At no additional charge, we will string instruments with the customer's choice. Our stock instruments have the following strings as standard:
Tradition (all except Baritone): Fluorocarbon, high-G
Classic (all except Baritone): Fluorocarbon, high-G
Baritone: Fluorocarbon, wound D
Resonator: Clear Nylon, high-G
6-String: Fluorocarbon, high-G
Lap Steel: Steel, low-G
D6 tuned instruments: Fluorocarbon, low-A
Note that the different types of strings are different diameters. Changing strings may require that your nut slot(s) be opened up. This is most often the case when going to the fluorocarbon low-G (.0433" vs. .030" for the wound low-G).
For pricing and ordering, visit this page.
For string diameters & tensions for our custom string sets, visit this page.
Lap Steel
We string our Lap Steel Resonator with a custom set of D'Addario loop-end steel strings. The standard tuning for the lap steel is open C (G-C-E-g). With the provided strings, it can be retuned to many different tunings including C6 (G-C-E-a) and open G (G-B-D-g), making the instrument extremely versatile. The standard strings that we provide are low-G (wound). We will provide a high-G upon request.
The strings that we use are not available in any standard set, but can either be purchased directly from us (as a set) or from other sources (as individual strings). The D'Addario strings are as follows:
Low-G: LE026W High-G: LE012 |
C: LE018 |
E: LE014 |
A: LE011 G: LE012 |
If you would like to tune up to open D (A-D-F#-a) and/or open A (A-C#-E-a), we recommend the following D'Addario strings:
Low-A: LE024W |
d: LE016 |
f#: LE013 |
a: LE011 |
6-String
All 3 string types (fluorocarbon, clear nylon and nylgut) are available for the Mya-Moe 6-string. We designed these string sets to specifically suit our 6-string ukulele. The bass strings are under less tension in order to maximize sustain, while the treble strings are under more tension in order to maximize attack and clarity.
C6 vs. D6 Tuning
The majority of our ukuleles are shipped and used in C6 tuning (G-C-E-A), though we do supply a number of instruments in D6 tuning (A-D-F#-B). This tuning is most predominant in the Canadian educational system where the ukuleles are tuned up a step in order to align better with the vocal range of grade school children.
We have designed string sets in all 3 string types (fluorocarbon, clear nylon and nylgut) for D6 tuning. We specifically designed these string sets to maximize sustain (keeping less tension on the low-A string) and note attack and clarity (putting higher tension on the B-string). The low-A string is wound for the nylgut or clear nylon sets.
While you can tune our C6 strings up a full step to D6 tuning, they are not designed for this range. Tuning up a step puts approximately 26% more tension on the strings and instrument, resulting in less string life, lower volume and a shorter sustain.
Re-Stringing
On the classic, you can safely remove & replace all the strings at the same time. On our resonators, you should only remove & replace one string at a time. This process helps ensure that the cone stays seated and that the saddle does not rotate, preserving intonation.
When replacing a string, first thread it through the hole in the tie-block located on the top of the instrument. After threading it through the hole, wrap it around itself 2 times (3 times on the smaller diameter #1 string and the #4 string if you use high-G or high-A tuning).
Then, bring the string over the nut and wrap it two times around the post of the tuning machine before threading it through the hole in the tuning machine. When viewed from the top, the strings go in a counter-clockwise direction on the two tuning machines on the left, and in a clockwise direction on the two tuning machines on the right. Ensure that the string wraps in a way such that it goes down the post, not up, as it is wound tighter. If the string goes up the post, it will not put enough pressure on the nut and you will likely experience excessive string buzz & vibration.
This all sounds much more complicated than it is! Just take a look at one of your other strings and copy the way it is strung and you'll be fine.
Notes on Classic Ukuleles 08019, 29, 31, 33, 36, 40, 42, 45, 48, 55 & 58
Our earlier Classic Ukuleles have a bridge which requires a "stopper knot" at the end of the string.
In order to preserve the integrity of the string, please use the Ashley Stopper Knot as shown in the diagram on the left.
